All you need to know about Signet Rings by L.Sadler at Gold Arts

The Signet Ring is an iconic design – adorning the fingers of the great and powerful throughout history, signifying ancestry, securing secret documents, and passing down through generations becoming one of the most treasured heirloom pieces of jewellery – but how does this heritage jewellery fit in modern society?

The answer is…with as much style and elegance as it always has. This blog runs through the key design styles to create modern wearable heirloom pieces of jewellery and ‘make your stamp on the world’

A traditional signet ring looks like a solid ring with a flat surface on the head. The head may be different shapes including shield, round, cushion, square, octagon and oval. The ring may be all metal or might be set with a gemstone, typical examples include black onyx, bloodstone and cornelian. The head might include a surface engraving, such as a monogram or it might have an intaglio engraving – a 3D image in relief, sometimes in reverse/mirrored.

A traditional signet ring looks like is a solid ring with a flat surface on the head. The head may be different shapes including shield, round, cushion, square, octagon and oval. The ring may be all metal or might be set with a gemstone, typical examples include black onyx, bloodstone and cornelian. The head might include a surface engraving, such as a monogram or it might have an intaglio engraving – a 3D image in relief, sometimes in reverse/mirrored.

A signet ring doesn’t have to be engraved with a motif, the head can remain plain, or you could choose a satin finish or simple pattern on plain gold or silver or have the ring set with a gemstone.

At Gold Arts we offer a lapidary service, sourcing your gemstone of choice for one of our stock rings or to fit a ring you already own. Engraving on gemstones is a true art form and we have reliable craftsmen who will execute your design to perfection. Smaller gemstones can be set into the shield of signet rings. Diamonds are a popular choice, and there is still room for engraving if you wish.

Image: left to right – Onyx, Tiger’s Eye, Bloodstone, Lapis Lazuli, Cornelian

Popular choices for signet rings include:

• Black Onyx – shiny black and opaque, suits both yellow and white gold.
• Tigers Eye – golden brown stripes displaying chatoyancy – goes well with yellow gold.
• Bloodstone – very dark green with speckles of red – popular in Victorian jewellery
• Lapis Lazuli – rich royal blue with veins and flecks of gold coloured pyrite - popular in ancient Egyptian jewellery
• Cornelian (Carnelian) – an orangey-brown semi translucent gemstone, a true classic.

For a gift to be something the recipient will really treasure, it needs to be memorable and show that you understand their personality and that you have put thought into the gift. A signet ring is a wonderful choice and can be tailored to suit your budget.

If you are choosing the ring as a fashionable everyday ring, then think about the metal they like to wear (silver/gold?) and perhaps have the ring set with a gemstone?

If it’s to mark a special occasion like a 21^st birthday, then you probably have a larger budget and an engraving with a family crest or monogram pairs beautifully with the idea of coming of age and taking a more responsible position within the family.

You don’t have to buy a new ring. If you have a ring already in the family ready to hand down, we can restore your ring to make it in perfect condition to give as a gift, with a professional clean and polish costing from as little as £20.

If the engraved design is no longer crisp, we can restore it or if you would like a new design, we can polish out the old motif and replace with a new one, provided there is enough depth in the metal.

1. RING DESIGN - We have a selection of rings available to buy online, but this is not our full inventory. Most of the styles come in various sizes – to suit men or women, and in various metals. Please browse our online selection for ideas and contact us for a quote for your bespoke design.

2. ENGRAVING DESIGN – provide us with a photo or drawing of the design, an old seal, or we can look through the family crest books and help you decide. There are lots of fantastic websites which can help you trace your family name and ancestor heraldry and give you ideas. Latin phrases can make an interesting moto for your family. The more detailed the image, the better it will look on your ring.

3. DECIDE ON MATERIALS – Silver, 9ct Yellow Gold, 9ct White Gold, 18ct Yellow Gold, 18ct White Gold, Palladium or Platinum. We also can set with any gemstone you like, as a full head of the ring, with or without an engraving.

4. TYPE OF ENGRAVING – Intaglio Engraving is a deep detailed 3D, perfect for family crests, heraldry, pictures and text. You can decide whether to keep it true to the design with readable text or have it engraved in reverse / mirrored keeping with the tradition of seal engraving. Alternatively, traditional Hand Engraving / Surface Engraving where it is of a uniform depth is carved into the ring. This is ideal for text, monograms or for more delicate jewellery.

5. COST AND DELIVERY – Every design is unique, so the size and the detail of each design will be reflected in the price. The cost of engraving starts at approximately £100 for surface seals and intaglio engraving starts at £200. Each design is hand produced so can take up to 4 weeks.   The material of the ring is another variable factor, we have silver signets from £65 and 9ct gold rings from £350. It is possible that we might have a bargain in our second-hand section too.

6. PRESENTATION- All jewellery will be supplied with a luxury leatherette velvet lined gift box and for deal engraving you will also receive a wax impression of your design.